RATATAK LM308 DISTORTION RAT CLONE PCB MOUNT VERSION
Thank you for purchasing our NEW (July 2014 Edition) Ratatak LM308 guitar pedal kit. previous versions versions did not have a case option, and the knobs did not turn the ‘correct ways’. We also are using some small 3 pin headers to attach the pots too. Less mess and fuss and now this pedal can be built with almost no wiring (none, but the 9V battery clip) If you are looking to build this kit in a larger or different enclosure, please consult our WIRED version of this kit. Please follow these instructions in order, as it can be tricky to build and insert into the enclosure.
PLEASE FOLLOW THE BOM AND NOT JUST THE PCB, THE BOM HAS THE BEST UPDATED COMPONENT VALUES.
RESISTORS & DIODES
It is really helpful to build your kit from the shortest components to the tallest. That means that every time you need to flip the PCB over to solder and clip leads, you can rest the PCB on a flat surface and your board will be flat as well (much easier for soldering). So lets start with populating the resistors and diodes. Remember that diodes are polarized components. You must orient the diodes by matching the stripe on the diode to the white stripe on the PCB.
Headers & IC Socket
We are now using 3 pin machined metal header sockets instead of the ribbon cable used previously. Place these headers in as shown above and carefully flip the PCB over and solder them into place. Notice that there is a plastic black sleeve that holds the header pins together. DO NOT overheat these while soldering as they will melt and be harder to use.
Next place the IC Socket into place and solder on the back side of the PCB
CAPACITORS, TRANSISTORS and IC
First start off the non-polarized capacitors by populating them & soldering on the back.
Next, populate the electrolytic capacitors by lining up the longer lead (anode) with the ‘+’ marking on the PCB. Then orient the transistor according to the screen markings as shown above. Solder and clip. You can also add the LM308 IC into the socket. Please align the notch on the IC with the notch on the socket and PCB silk screen.
AUDIO JACKS, 9V CLIP, DC Jack & 3PDT STOMP SWITCH
You can now place the mono and stereo 1/4″ audio jacks on the their respective sides and solder them in. Then wire in the 9V battery clip as shown above and solder. Then place the DC Jack through the board, and solder flat. (you may want to solder just one leg of it and then re-heat and push it down, then solder the remaining legs.)
Now populate the 3PDT switch and make sure it recedes into the PCB (even if a tight fit, make sure it goes in). Now Solder. Please remove ALL the nuts and washers on the stomp switch (the picture above has one on, but take it off).
CLIPPING DIODE SWITCH
Flip your PCB over and align and populate the clipping diode selector switch and solder. This 4 way switch is really exiting and will give you many great tonal options. The First 2 switches are (from Left to Right) silicone diodes. By pressing both of those down you will select symmetrical silicone clipping. By pressing 3 & 4 down (and NOT 1 & 2) you will select symmetrical germanium clipping. Only one switch down will be asymmetrical, BUT try out various combinations of clipping in order to product unique clipping options.
Take your 4 Potentiometers and clip all the metal placement pieces (DO NOT CUT THE PINS OFF! -see below) around the base of the pot in order to avoid them from shorting out components (the PCB mount pedals are a tight fit!).
Clip the SKINNY part of the 3 pot leads IN HALF. ONLY do this to the skinnier part as shown above. Doing so will get the leads to the desired height which will make mounting the project into the enclosure MUCH EASIER.
THIS NEXT PART CAN BE TRICKY. PLEASE FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY.
After you have clipped your pot leads CAREFULLY AND QUICKLY add a drop of solder into the holes of the female headers (this will allow you to more quickly solder the pots in to avoid melting or mangling the headers). You can solder the in the pots in very carefully as shown above. The pots will be quire secure once the project is mounted up into the case and the pot nuts are tightened (do not OVER-TIGHTEN). After soldering these all on, please be careful not to bend these a bunch as they can bend loose.
At this point it would be wise to test your pedal (yeah!). The LED will not light up (as it has not been populated yet), but you will be able to make sure it turns on and works. Plug in your 9v center negative power brick (one-spot, Boss, etc.) or 9V battery to test. You should have true-bypass or a distorted signal after you press the stomp switch. If you are not getting a proper function, please look over your project for cold solder joints or misplaced components and try again. If stuck visit our TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE BY CLICKING HERE
Populate the LED into the PCB by lining up the FLAT side of the LED with the Flat indicator on the silk Screen (DO NOT SOLDER YET!). LEDs are polarized components and will only work if inserted the correct way. Allow the LED to remain unsoldered until you put the project into the enclosure.
Now carefully (do not rush this or force anything) slide the project into the enclosure and push the LED through the bezel and bend the leads mark your place.
Carefully turn the project over and solder the LED leads and clip.
Now add the nuts and washers as shown above remembering not to over tighten. Notice that the audio jacks do not have any washers, please discard the washes that came with the jacks. You can now add the optional knobs.
You have assembled your rat clone and are ready to shred. If you have any issues after putting the project in a case, carefully remove it and look for a connection that could have broken and repair.
BE SURE TO USE ONLY A 9V CENTER NEGATIVE POWER BRICK OR A 9V Battery.