Welcome to the assembly instructions for the Nandamonium! This product features a double nand drone and built in delay functionality. The Nandamonium takes a standard 9v center negative power adapter.
If you’ve received your parts and ready to build, the first thing you should do is to check to make sure you have all the parts. Check your kit against the Nandamonium BOM. If you’re missing anything we’ll send it to you free of charge.
Soldering the Components
First solder all the resistors into place. Resistors are not polar sensitive so you may install them in any orientation.
Next, solder all the ceramic capacitors in place. They are not polar sensitive, and can be placed any direction. It is suggested to place them in such a way that you can read them easily later on.
Now solder the IC sockets into place. They are notched on one end, and need to be placed so that they match the silkscreen on the board. A tip for soldering the IC socket flat to the PCB, first solder two opposite corners of the socket and then make sure that you get the socket flush to the PCB. Afterwards solder the rest of the pins and touch-up the two first pins as necessary.
Electrolytic Capacitors & Voltage Regulator
Now lets solder the electrolytic capacitors to the board. They are polar and need to be put in with the longer lead going into the via with the + next to it. The voltage regulator is polar as well, and needs to be matched to the silkscreen on the PCB, with the flat side on the regulator matching the flat side on the PCB.
Power and Audio Jacks
Next up, place the actual ICs into their sockets, matching the notch on the chip to the notch on both the PCB silkscreen and the socket you put in earlier. The DC jack goes on the side of the board with the silkscreen writing that says “DC_INPUT”. Try to keep it perpendicular to the edge of the board, and push it as far back from the edge as possible. This will help avoid fitment issues later. The mono jacks go on the same side of the board, just ensure they are flat to the board before soldering all the legs.
Diode & 9v Battery Clip
Flip the board over, to the side that has the silkscreen for the potentiometers. There is a place for a single diode near the top of the boards. Go ahead and solder this in now, matching the stripe on the diode to the striped part of the silkscreen. Solder the 9v battery clip in so the wires match the picture above. The negative via will have what looks like a cross through it.
Keeping the board with the battery clip up, place all the controls on the board (potentiometers, switches, and LEDs) but DO NOT SOLDER THEM YET. We will need to fit all this into the case before soldering. Make sure that all nuts have been removed from everything before trying to fit it in the case, otherwise, it won’t work.
Some pots come with nubs near the shaft that may get in the way of installing the circuit into a case. Check for a nub and clip as necessary.
Before we fit the board into the case, the LED Bezels need to fastened to the case, through the holes shown above.
After wrestling the Nandamonium PCB into the case, start the nuts for the output, cv1 and cv2 jacks on the sides before tightening any of the nuts on the top. This will hold everything in place, and line it all up.
Now we are ready to put the nuts on everything and tighten them up fully. Just be sure not to over-tighten any of the controls. The pots should move just a little bit as you tighten them all the way up.
Next just flip the Nandamonium over and solder up all the leads sticking through, being careful not to touch any caps or ICs with the soldering iron. After that, just close up the case, and install the knobs, and you’re good to go!
Afterwards, your Nandamonium should look like this. Congratulations on successfully completing the build!